The Perfect Shave Guide
, by Martin Forshaw, 3 min reading time
, by Martin Forshaw, 3 min reading time
A traditional wet shave can be more than a daily chore. With the right preparation, a good razor and a few simple habits, it can become a calm, satisfying part of your routine.
The secret is not rushing: soften the beard, build a protective lather and let a sharp blade do the work.
Good preparation makes shaving more comfortable and helps reduce tugging, irritation and razor burn.
Start by washing your face with warm water, or shave after a warm shower. This helps soften the beard hairs and clean the skin.
For a little extra preparation, hold a warm, damp flannel against the beard area for around 20–30 seconds.
If you are prone to dryness, sensitivity or shaving irritation, you may also wish to use a pre-shave oil or pre-shave cream. Apply a small amount and massage it gently into the beard before lathering.
A quality shaving cream or soap helps the razor glide over the skin while providing cushioning and protection.
You can apply shaving cream with your fingers, but a shaving brush makes it easier to create a warm, rich lather and work it properly into the beard.
To use a shaving brush:
A synthetic, boar or badger shaving brush can all work well—the best choice comes down to the feel you prefer.
Choose a razor and blade that feel comfortable in your hand, and always use a clean, sharp blade.
A dull blade is more likely to tug at the hair, require extra pressure and leave the skin feeling irritated.
Shave using short, controlled strokes. Rinse the razor regularly in warm water to clear hair and lather from the blade.
For most people, the best first pass is with the grain—in the natural direction the beard grows.
If you want a closer shave, reapply lather before making another pass. Many wet shavers then shave across the grain, rather than immediately against it.
Avoid pressing the razor into the skin. Let the weight of the razor and the sharpness of the blade do the work.
Take particular care around the upper lip, jawline and neck, where beard growth often changes direction.
When you have finished shaving, rinse your face with cool or lukewarm water to remove any remaining lather.
Pat the skin dry with a clean towel rather than rubbing it.
Finish with a post-shave balm, moisturiser or aftershave product that suits your skin type. A soothing balm can be particularly useful if your skin feels dry, tight or sensitive after shaving.
Fragranced aftershaves and alcohol-based splashes can give a refreshing finish, but they may sting or feel drying on sensitive skin. If that happens, choose an alcohol-free balm or moisturiser instead.
With a little practice, you will quickly find the routine, razor and products that work best for your skin.
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